Our header is one of our hottest items. This is the 6 into 1 performance header. Headers let your engine breath better. There are very few bolt on that yield as much “seat of the pants” performance as headers. Performance is in the form of power and mileage increases. Headers feature thick steel flanges and mandrel bent mild steel tubing for durability and maximum flow. These headers have been sized to provide good performance gains in the low- and mid-ranges necessary for efficient street and off road operation.
Header comes with new manifold gasket, collector, collector gasket, and fasteners for hook-up. Our header allows for easy access to clutch work if needed, others do not. As with all headers, check to see if this allowable in your area. 71-73 will need longer oil lines. Header fits 68 up 1F and 2F motors in FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, or FJ60. Will not fit those with PTO winch. Header shipped raw.
- There is no C.A.R.B. number associated with this header and it does not utilize any of your existing smog equipment.
- Although there is no way to tell because of a host of factors, it should yield as much as 10 to 15% more horsepower.
- The bottom of your 1F/2F intake is sealed. Once split, the intake should not take on air.
- You can leave it raw, although that will decrease the overall life, but you exhaust manifold was raw when it came off, right? We use VHT header paint, seems to hold up fairly well. You can ceramic coat the header, but often it is fairly expensive. Header wraps will decrease temps, but on offroad vehicles the tape often traps mud and muck.
- You can get by without welding, by clamping your exhaust on the collector, but it makes a much nicer install to have the exhaust welded in the collector, then bolted up.
- The header uses the same studs as your exhaust manifold. Some early models do not have as many as the later ones. Use the ones you were using for the exhaust manifold and you will be fine. We do not suggest drilling and taping the head.
- Occasionally there are difference in intake manifold and exhaust header flange thickness. they share studs, so we suggest splitting a washer to build one side for equal pull down.
- Although we include a gasket with every header, if you ever need another a stock one should work, we have done this as well.
- The header will fit nicely between the frame and the bottom of the engine block and exit at the back of the block.
- The down pipe is the same location as the factory PTO shaft and will likely interfere. Possible notching may work, but this is at your own experimenting.