Header Installation

There are many opinions on how and why you install a header.  First, we will try to explain how we install them, and then try to answer some popular questions. 

When we install a header we fist mill the header.  Although all headers are built and shipped with the assumption that they are true.  To make sure and not have to redo the installation we ALWAYS take our local machine shop and have it milled.  On Land Cruisers, we take both intake and exhaust and have them milled to equal thickness.  After it is back, we coat the header with our VHT header paint.  The header is ready for installation.  After removing the factory manifold we use a ziss wheel to clean the head face to make sure it is clean as possible.  Once in place we tighten the bolts generally as tight as they will go, sure you can use a torque spec, but strong arm seems to work better.  Then we have the local exhaust shop install and weld in the exhaust / header flange.  After one cycle of hot to cold for the engine we retighten the header bolts.  Then we drive after about 500 miles or so we repeat this procedure.  So far, this has been very successful as to not having exhaust header leaks.

F.A.Q.

Q. Do I need to use two gaskets?
A. No, we have never done this.  People claim that it gives twice the chance to seal.  It also gives you twice the chance for leaks.  Bottom line, if you use two gaskets, something's wrong.

Q. Do I need to use a sealant?
A. Opinions are mixed.  We do NOT use sealant, but have seen many running applications with it.

Q. My header and manifold are different thickness, is this right?
A. You are correct.  This is a very simple reason, US steel and a Japanese vehicle.  Due to manufacturing costs, header flange are most economically made from standard steel (most are 3/8" thick).  You manifold is a metric thickness.  This is why we suggest milling.  Another easy trick is to cut a washer in half and build up one side. 

Q. Is it coated, painted, raw? 
A. We ship all our JTO headers raw.  Other brands are generally shipped with a black paint.  Any paint that is not a specific header paint will burn off very quickly.  Therefore we choose to have our manufacturer send them raw so they will not have to be stripped before painting or coating.

Q. Will it rust out?
A. Absolutely, there is NO header that will not rust out.  This is why we suggest you coat or paint the header prior to installation to slow this down.  Usually, in our region a header will last 5 to 10 years.  They are thinner than the factory manifold and eventually rust through. 

Q. What is the thickness of the down tubes?
A. The down tubes are 16 gauge (most competitors are thinner 18 gauge).

Q. What size is the collector? 
A. The collector is a 2 1/2" size.

Q. What is the thickness of the flanges?
A. The head flanges are 3/8" laser cut, the collector flange is stamped.

Q. Is this header emission legal?
A. This depends on your local requirement.  In general, they are not: there are no fitting our provisions for your emissions system. 

Q. Will this header bolt up to my stock exhaust?
A. All of our headers are designed with the stock exhaust in mind.  That is not to say they are going to fit every application, everytime.  We weld each collector on for a sealed fit and suggest you do the same.

Q. What comes with the header?
A. We include a header, header gasket, collector, collector gasket and collector hardware